The Testpiece Podcast
By Testpiece
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Category: Sports
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Subscribers: 15
Reviews: 0
Episodes: 97
Description
A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from good to great.
| Episode | Date |
|---|---|
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#97 Davin Bagdonas — Alpine Fusion, Grizzly Bears, Developing 1000’s of Climbs World Wide, Chasing The Dragon, and The Call To Adventure
|
May 06, 2024 |
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#96 T&J — Battling Mid-Send Doubts, Incredibly Hard Sends, New Shoe Tech, Update Your System By Shutting Up, Don’t Talk Sh!t, and Josh Talk’s Sh!t
|
Apr 29, 2024 |
|
#95 Palmer Larsen — The Master Coach, Adaptability and Autonomy, Deliberate Practice, Style Then Process, What’s Wrong In Coaching Today, and Olympic 2024 Predictions
|
Apr 22, 2024 |
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#94 T&J — How To Approach EVERY Climb, New Era Of Climbing Media, Double Clutching Outside, New Patreon Offering, Warm-Up Projects, Un-Campusing and Why Trying Hard Isn’t Enough
|
Apr 15, 2024 |
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#93 Allison Vest — THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD, Hangboarding Deep Dive, Comps Vs Outdoors, LeBron James’ Tip to Send V14, Not Lying to Yourself, Creating FLOAT and Her Secret Training PDF (only $9.99)
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Apr 08, 2024 |
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#92 T&J — Climbing At Your Limit, Make It Right USAC, Rants Continue, Gym Field Trips, and The Simplest Effective Training Routine
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Apr 01, 2024 |
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#91 Jimmy Webb — Adventure and Development, How Climbers Go From Good To Great, Southern Style, World’s Greatest Flasher, The New Generation, and The Hardest Moves In The World
|
Mar 25, 2024 |
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#90 T&J — “Strength Forgets”, The Process SA, Team Trials Trouble, Binding Your Feet, Moonboard Rant, and Get Injured To Get Better Technique?!
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Mar 18, 2024 |
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#89 Martin Keller — 8C+ at 45+, How To Gain Limit Strength, How To Project, Naysayers, Avoiding Injury, and The Big Difference Between Indoors and Outdoors
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Mar 11, 2024 |
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#88 T&J — Busting Plateau’s, How To Reclaim A Peak, Get Your Own Felipe [Hoo], ROTSW Still V17, and Sending The MoonBoard Proj
|
Mar 04, 2024 |
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#87 Matty Hong — Big Falls & Big Fish [9a 50m DWS], Photography 101, What Makes Sharma Special and Lessons From Biographie [World’s First 9a+]
|
Feb 26, 2024 |
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#86 T&J — PED’s, Breaking Down A Crux, Climbing Like A 6 Year-Old Girl, Injury Prevention, and BTS On A Moonboard Session
|
Feb 19, 2024 |
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#85 Keenan Takahashi — Higher Harder Better, ANTIGRAV, The Best Lines In The World, Mentorship, Manifesting More, and The Mustache Turns 10
|
Feb 12, 2024 |
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#84 T&J — Hard Hard, New New, Sessioning With The BEST, USAC Controversy, and Switching To Moonboard 2024
|
Feb 05, 2024 |
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#83 Sean Bailey — Devilution FA [~V16], Japan’s Gym Scene, The Future of Hard Sport Climbing, Spearheading USA’s Return to WC’s, Projecting in Bouldering vs Sport, and BTS of Making It As a Pro
|
Jan 29, 2024 |
|
#82 T&J — Negative Thoughts -> Words -> Actions, Type 2 Fun, Achieving Your Potential, Grades vs Belts, and ‘Make Climbing Dangerous Again’
|
Jan 22, 2024 |
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#81 Carlo Traversi — The Dark Side V16 FA, Using Wet Chalk, Pushing Not Pulling, The Grade Debate, and What He Learned From Yosemite Testpiece’s
|
Jan 15, 2024 |
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#80: T&J — Always Be Hungry, Good Sessions Only, Stop Lying, You Suck, Fueled by Failure, and Tim Joins A Normie Gym
|
Jan 08, 2024 |
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#79: West Coast Pimps — Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher, Sharma’s Mentor, The Origin’s of Try Hard, Early Days in Hueco and Bishop, and Lessons From Decades of High Level Bouldering
|
Jan 01, 2024 |
|
#78: T&J — Baby Rattlesnakes, F*CK! Tim Got Injured, The Demonstration of Strength, Kids Vs Adults, and Boarding As A Minor
|
Dec 25, 2023 |
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#77: Zach Galla — Raw Power, The Truth Behind WC Comps, The Olympic Grind, Leaving a Legacy, and The Role of Boards
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Dec 18, 2023 |
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#76: T&J — How Technical is Board Climbing? Committing vs Learning, Being the Conductor, Lead Domino, and One Arm Pull-Ups
|
Dec 11, 2023 |
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#75: Jesse Grupper — Neck Tats, Paris 2024, Big Goals Little Steps, Mega-Volume, Sport Climbing Tips, Cyborgs and Optimism as a Tool
|
Dec 04, 2023 |
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#74: T&J — Board Wars, Board Lords, Boards Adored, Spray vs Standardized, Wood vs Plastic, Bad Apps, Flo Flows Floatin, and If There Could Only Be ONE
|
Nov 27, 2023 |
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#73: Ethan Salvo — Don’t Try Hard, What Makes Squamish Special, V15 in Squamish vs CO, What’s Next In Squamish Bouldering, and Being On Team ANTIGRAV
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Nov 20, 2023 |
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#72: T&J — Smoking Sharma's Joint, Outdoor Season Prep, Pro Problems, Small Holds Small Feet, Skin Smarts, Rituals and Music To Get You Psyched
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Nov 13, 2023 |
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#71: Roman Yalowitz — Crowbars and Glue, Breaking The BEST [& Josh’s Heart], Tahoe’s Golden Era, Development Ethics and BTS, and Learning From a World Class Crew
|
Nov 06, 2023 |
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#70: T&J — The Best Tasting Boulders, Bad/Good/Great Routesetting, “Cheating”, V16 Downgrades, You Are What You Climb, What To Do When Your Gym Setting Sucks and Past Guest Reflections [Andy Lamb]
|
Oct 30, 2023 |
|
#69: Andy Lamb — Banned by 8a.nu, Strong Siblings, ‘Accidentally’ Climbing V16s, Boards vs Outdoors, The Best Project on the West Coast, and Why Being a Pro Won’t Help
|
Oct 23, 2023 |
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#68: T&J — Soft Climbs Hard Tries, Flashing Spectre, Moonboard Pros, Old Crew vs Young Crew, 1st Try Tactics, Flashing Ethics and Past Guest Reflections [Katie Lamb]
|
Oct 16, 2023 |
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#67: Katie Lamb — V16 FFA, V16 FSA(?), Projects > Quick Ticks, Making Your Attempts Count, Visualization, Good Boulders Only, Pro-Level Tactics, and What Actually Makes Your Fingers Stronger
|
Oct 09, 2023 |
|
#66: T&J — “My Wife Says Your Setting Sucks”, Contradictory Training Advice / Hype, Don’t Major In The Minors, Morpho Climbs, Sessioning with “The Strong Crew”, Yosemite Testpiece’s, Doing a V8 vs Climbing V8, and Past Guest Reflections [Mike Heinstein]
|
Oct 02, 2023 |
|
#65: Mike Heinstein — $200M in Advice, What’s Next in Climbing Gyms, Lessons from Europe, The Best Model for Climbers, Chains vs Communities, The Value of Routesetting, Opening Your Own Gym, Learning from Snowboarding Culture and Climbing for Life
|
Sep 25, 2023 |
|
#64: Intention — When There’s No Time or Psyche, Doing THE Thing, Low Hanging Fruit, Plan A/B/C…F, Lack of Time vs Energy, Low Psyche Workouts, and Past Guest Reflections [Nathaniel Coleman]
|
Sep 18, 2023 |
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#63: Nathaniel Coleman — Elite Mental Game, Why He’s Not Competing, Twitch Streaming, Proper Excitement Levels, Intuition vs Logical Analysis, WC Commentary, Future Goals and [of course] Kendama
|
Sep 11, 2023 |
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#62: You're Training Wrong — The North Star, Inspiration from Japan, The Fundamental Question, #Training, Learning How To Learn, Curling Your Way Past V4, Squatting Your Way to V14 and Past Guest Reflections [Eric Jerome]
|
Sep 04, 2023 |
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#61: Eric Jerome — Quest For the BEST, The Top 100 Boulders, The Origin of Star Ratings, 6 Attributes of Quality, Focusing on Quality, and The Story Behind the Current #1 Best Boulder in the USA
|
Aug 28, 2023 |
|
#60: Conquering Cruxes — Sequencing Macro to the Micro, Infinite Beta Layers, V15 @ 15, Pro Climber Volume, Food Safety Gloves, and Past Guest Reflections [Will Anglin]
|
Aug 21, 2023 |
|
#59: Will Anglin — Tension Founder, Training With the BEST in the World, A Student/Master of The Craft, Strength Metrics vs Sending Reality, Infinite Variables, and Being Consumed by Something You Love
|
Aug 14, 2023 |
|
#58: Boards > Gym? — Why Boards?, F*CK! Josh Got Hurt, Mallorca Dreamin’, Classroom Review, Reducing Variables, and Reflections on Tim’s Favorite Episode [Jason Kehl]
|
Aug 07, 2023 |
|
#57: Jason Kehl — Evilution FA, Mutate Your Body, When Climbs Take Your Breath Away, Creating Experiences of ‘Awe’, Why Hueco is Special, “Real Climbing”, Becoming Obsessed, and SO Much More
|
Jul 31, 2023 |
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#56: MAXIMIZE — Dealing with Constraints, Falling in Love, 2016 Moonboarding, Tim’s Big Move, Goals and How to Actually Train for Them, Bucket List Climbs, and Fitzgerald Reflections
|
Jul 24, 2023 |
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#55: David Fitzgerald — Technique and Strength on Small Holds, Getting Granular, The Tahoe Scene, Training Minutiae, and Editing “A Little Life”
|
Jul 17, 2023 |
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#54: World Cup '23 [Spoilers!] — Why This Season Was So Good, New Amazing Talent, Bouldering Results, Venue Vibes, and Why it’s like F1
|
Jul 10, 2023 |
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#53: Jon Cardwell — 5.15 Sport Climbing, Busting Plateaus and Structured Training, Dirtbagging in Europe, Advice for Young Pro’s, Anaerobic vs. Aerobic, and The Best Climbing Areas in the World
|
Jul 03, 2023 |
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#52: No Coach? No Problem — How to Self Analyze, Learn How to Answer the Question “Why?”, Using Video for Success, What your Friends Know (or DON’T)
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Jun 26, 2023 |
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#51: Jamie Emerson — The ‘Sheriff’, Defining Boulders, What Elite Climbers have in Common, Subjectivity in Grading, Technique vs Smoothness, Sending After 100 Days, Training your Creativity, and Developing What’s Next
|
Jun 19, 2023 |
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#50: The Best Climbing Gym in the World? — Japanese Setting, ‘Black’ Tape, B-Pump, and Reflections on the ‘Villain’
|
Jun 12, 2023 |
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#49: Tristan Chen — Being the ‘Villain’, Grades in Climbing, Climbing 5.15 in Rumney, Surviving Cancer, What Pro’s are ACTUALLY Like (Over/Underrated), and ‘Hot Takes’ Galore
|
Jun 05, 2023 |
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#48: Do or DIE — How to Perform Under Pressure in Competitions, Run-Outs, Highballs, Flashing, or ANYTIME the Stakes are High
|
May 30, 2023 |
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#47: Carlo Traversi — Becoming Great, The Hardest Moves and Grades in the World, How Having Fun Can Beat Training, Mastering Different Disciplines, The Magic of Yosemite, and What Makes Carlo’s Gym ‘The Boulder Field’ Special
|
May 22, 2023 |
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#46 -- F*CK! I'm Injured
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May 15, 2023 |
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#45 -- Jared Roth (pusher)
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May 08, 2023 |
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#44 -- Your Home
|
May 01, 2023 |
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#43 -- Connor Herson, Non-Traditional
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Apr 24, 2023 |
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#42 -- Crimp Types and the Why Behind Each One
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Apr 17, 2023 |
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#41 -- Sloper Love
|
Apr 10, 2023 |
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#40 -- Putting the Lessons Together, Effort
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Apr 03, 2023 |
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#39 -- The 2nd Lesson, Mechanics
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Mar 28, 2023 |
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#38 -- The 1st Lesson, Balance
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Mar 20, 2023 |
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#37 -- Sport Climbing Tips, Tricks, & Tactics
|
Mar 06, 2023 |
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#36 -- Grades Matter
|
Feb 27, 2023 |
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#35 -- Bodyweight Optimization and Cutting Edge Tech
|
Feb 21, 2023 |
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#34 -- Pursuing Mastery with Tim & Coach Andy
|
Feb 14, 2023 |
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#33 -- Coach Andy Tollefson
|
Feb 06, 2023 |
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#32 -- Pumping Iron for Climbing?
|
Jan 30, 2023 |
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#31 -- Supplements and Climbing
|
Jan 23, 2023 |
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#30 -- Footwork and Shoe Choice
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Jan 16, 2023 |
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#29 -- Reviews of '22 and Predictions for '23
|
Jan 09, 2023 |
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#28 -- Tim's Best Day
|
Dec 20, 2022 |
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#27 -- What is 'Comp Style'?
|
Dec 14, 2022 |
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#26 -- BISHOP!
|
Dec 02, 2022 |
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#25 -- Nationals, Adventure, The Meta
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Nov 21, 2022 |
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#24 -- Maxim Zolotukhin, Aesthetics
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Nov 14, 2022 |
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#23 -- Preparing for Nationals
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Nov 02, 2022 |
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#22 -- Modern Climbing Gyms
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Oct 26, 2022 |
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#21 -- Moonboard Deep Dive
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Oct 19, 2022 |
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#20 -- Balancing Outdoors, Indoors, and Boards
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Oct 16, 2022 |
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#19 -- Ethan Pringle, The Jaw/Jah
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Oct 07, 2022 |
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#18 -- Reframing Volume + Skin Q&A
|
Sep 29, 2022 |
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#17 -- Success at NACS
|
Sep 22, 2022 |
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#16 -- Etiquette, Grades, and Q&A
|
Sep 16, 2022 |
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#15 -- Board Climbing as a Training Tool
|
Sep 11, 2022 |
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#14 -- Quantitative vs Qualitative
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Sep 02, 2022 |
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#13 -- Supplementation, Jackalope, Alphane
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Aug 26, 2022 |
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#12 -- Success Begets Success + Q&A
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Aug 18, 2022 |
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#11 -- And We're Back!
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Jul 29, 2022 |
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#10 -- Listener Q&A and the SLsCene
|
May 27, 2022 |
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#9 -- Modeling, Highballs, and Meiringin
|
Apr 25, 2022 |
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#8 -- The Wall: Climb for Gold
|
Apr 15, 2022 |
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#7 -- Al Rangel, A Coach's Mind
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Apr 07, 2022 |
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#6 -- National Team Trials! The good, the bad, and the ugly.
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Mar 30, 2022 |
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#5 -- Confluence, Reviewed
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Mar 10, 2022 |
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#4 -- More Ross, Less Tim
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Mar 08, 2022 |
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#3 -- Ross and Tim, The Origin Story
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Mar 01, 2022 |
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#2 -- Behind the scenes at Bouldering Nationals
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Feb 15, 2022 |
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#1 -- Josh and Tim Start a Pod
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Feb 04, 2022 |